Galib Rahman Khan
A heritage tour or a walk is a good way to explore and get to know our heritage sites. With this in mind, ‘Save the Heritages of Bangladesh’ (STHOB), primarily a Facebook-based group, arranges regular trips to places of architectural and historical importance around the country.
The group, formed in 2007, has already organised more than a dozen tours. Its 13th trip was to Wari and Narinda and some nearby locations in Old Dhaka on October 2. Architect Sazzadur Rasheed led the daylong visit.
Wari and Narinda — these two areas bear pictorial history of Dhaka from Sultani period to modern day, which is a rare combination.
Wari can be a showcase of urban planning of Dhaka. It has a rich history and some important infrastructural development, such as Baldha Garden. One can start the journey from Jay-Kali Mandir, a 200-250 years-old temple complex on Joy Kali Mandir Road joining famous Thathari Bazar and Wari. The small complex was badly affected by riots in the past. Sadly, it is not well maintained.
The most beautiful structure, Pancha-ratna (five spires on Bangla shaped main room) is inaccessible to visitors as there are other structures around. The way to Baldha Garden is through the streets of Wari. It is enjoyable to walk through the nearly 130-year-old planned urban area and explore some wonderful old structures.
Before developing the area, land was given to people, but there was no effective development. So the government decided to establish a planned area for middle-class people and the result was Wari. The development was spearheaded by Mr Ware, collector of Dhaka in the 1880s. The authorities divided 27 acres of land into many 1 bigha (0.33 acre) plots and roads were made in a grid pattern. The roads were named after important British civilians of that time. For example, one road was named after Ware himself. Plot owners then built many lovely houses. Some of those are still there, slightly hidden among new high-rises.
The garden of Narendra Narayan Roy Chaudhury, presently known as Baldha Garden, faces the same fate. Situated on Nawab Street, it is a priceless ornament of Dhaka. Everyone should go there and feel it. Before talking about the garden, it may helpful to know something about Narendra Chaudhury. This dynamic person _ artist, writer, collector, gardener, administrator — was landlord of an estate in Gazipur sadar area and its main part was Baldha. So, he was known as Baldha’s Zamindar. He was a different figure of that time. ‘Culture’, a unique living place combining colonial residential court, theatre, cultural spaces, library, impressive collection of artifacts (the ground floor of the house was used as a museum, known as Baldha Museum), living quarters for artists, rest house and magnificent garden, was his place. The residential and cultural zone is no more, and the museum’s collection is now displayed at the National Museum as ‘Baldha Collection’. Interested persons should take a look at the collection, which is an expression of Chaudhury’s taste. This man used to stage dramas written by himself!
The garden was developed between 1901 and 1943 as a house garden, until the sudden death of the Zamindar. It is a wonder that he collected 672 species of plants from around the world. This is passion! The flora collection is unbelievable. It is like a miniature sample of the world’s flora, representing plants from 50 countries. After his death, addition of new plants stopped, but the main gardener, Amritalal Acharjia, looked after the properly till 1982. The garden is now under government control.
Divided into two parts, the larger open part is named Cybele after the Greek nature goddess, while the smaller part is ‘Psyche’, meaning ‘soul’. The Psyche portion is restricted to common visitors, but the group members got the chance to enter. The condition of the garden is not so good, as high-rise buildings obstruct sunlight.
Before entering Narinda, we can visit Shankhanidhi Lodge on Tipu Sultan Road. Once owned by a rich merchant, Shankhanidhi, it is one of finest residences of Old Dhaka. The architectural design and craftsmanship of the ironwork and woodwork is extraordinary. It was going to be demolished, as its neighbour Vajhori Lodge. But it survived and is now used as a motor workshop and offices. Actually, Tipu Sultan Road was home to many rich merchants.
Narinda is a pre-Mughal urban settlement. The journey there must start at the Christian Cemetery. It is under the authority of Dhaka Archbishop and a restricted site. This old cemetery is full of colonial period graves — the oldest one is from 1725. The graves of many important figures from history are there. Sadly, here too, the condition of old structures on the graves is very bad. Particularly, one ‘Colombo Shaheb’s’ tomb may collapse anytime if we do not uproot the trees growing on it. Once, there was a church here, experts say. A slightly high treeless ground is supposed to be its location.
Next stop in Narinda is Binat Bibi’s Mosque — perhaps the most important site of the tour. On the way to the mosque from the cemetery, Gowriya Math (a temple complex) and some British colonial houses can be seen. So, it is best to walk there. Binat Bibi’s Mosque is the oldest surviving mosque of Dhaka city. It is a Sultani period mosque _ a solid proof of Dhaka’s urban setting in Sultani time. Build in 1457, as per inscription by Bakht Binat Bibi, the original structure cannot be traced easily. The two-domed eastern part with veranda appears old, but actually, only the southern domed portion is original pre-Mughal structure. The north dome and veranda were later additions, and the original south part was altered badly at the time. Now, it is impossible to get a Sultani flavour here. There was an attempt to demolish this part some years ago. Somehow, the destruction was stopped. The grave of Binat Bibi is also nearby.
Beside the mosque, there was an old Mughal period bridge on the Dholai Khal (canal). Hayat Bepari’s Mosque, built in 1664, was also nearby. However, the original structure of the mosque was demolished. Both canal and bridge are now in the record books only.
Sharat Gupta Road is full of heritage buildings, which leads us to Swamibagh from Binat Bibi’s Mosque. The house of Shakti Aushadhalaya’s owner is one of those, and it’s the last one standing. Actually, it was built by Lal Mohan Chakraborty, nephew of Mathura Mohan Chakraborty and later owner of Shakti. It is a fabulous building in near ruined condition. Ornamentations, especially Chini-tikri (Chinese ceramics) designs, are eroding away. The Smriti Mandir is used as a residence!
A close view and interest in our heritage can make the exploration memorable. Some study before a visit will also be helpful. Completing the tour, questions may be raised: Almost all sites are near to ruins, but why? The answer is: Nothing, but our lack of awareness. So, we have to love and take care of these old buildings to protect our history.
Galib Rahman Khan is a banker and affiliated with STHOB as an admin.
The article was originally published in The Independent on November 13, 2015.
